In early February one year it was my privilege to spend a day with my esteemed friend and co-author of this book. Dr.H. E. Kirschner, in a tree-planting adventure at his Yucaipa ranch. The Doctor had read some of my editorials in the Garden section of Let's Live magazine, and was interested in trying out my novel, if not revolutionary method of planting trees. It was while buying some fruit trees for my backyard orchard in Gardena (California), many years ago that I received one of my most treasured lessons in tree planting. While wrapping up my purchase at the Armstrong Nurseries, the friendly salesman offered this bit of advice. Said he: "It is better to plant a 50 cent tree in a $5.00 hole than to plant a $5.00 tree in a 50 cent hole."

It took some time for this sage remark to "sink in," but after careful reflection, the whole "picture" finally came into proper focus. This wise old nurseryman was trying to tell me to dig a big hole and fill it with life-sustaining nutrients for the future sustenance of the tree.

Then suddenly I remembered Grandma. For some seven years, as young lads, my twin brother Henry and I were privileged to act as helpers on Ellen G. White's beautiful Napa Valley ranch in northern California. By the way, this grandmother of ours was a confirmed organic gardener. No chemical fertilizers were ever permitted on the Elmshaven dairy and fruit farm; and what is more, to my knowledge no poison sprays were ever used in the orchards or vegetable gardens. She always believed in cooperating with Nature instead of fighting her.

Perhaps my readers will enjoy a first-hand account from her pen regarding her method of planting fruit trees. Here it is: "First I ordered my hired man to dig a deep cavity in the ground; then put in rich earth (topsoil or muck), then stones, then rich earth. After this he put in layers of earth and dressing (compost), until the hole was filled."

Then a friendly neighbor handed me a little booklet written by a down-to-earth "dirt farmer" named Geiger. This booklet revealed a revolutionary method of planting fruit trees, which if carefully followed, would not only prevent disease — but would also keep the BUGS away! My Gardena nurseryman's good advice — Grandmother White's noble example —Mr. Geiger's miracle method — it all began to add up to a beautiful $5.00 hole, whether we were going to plant a $5.00 orange or avocado tree, or a humble 50 cent shrub!

The most important ingredient in the preparation of our $5.00 hole is well-made COMPOST. In order to help "extend" this precious organic plant food and soil conditioner, I mix with the compost (1) leaf-mold, (2) topsoil or river-bottom muck. I also add such natural, mineral-bearing substances as raw phosphate rock, greensand, or potassium-bearing granite dust, plus a sprinkling of kelp (sea vegetation) rich in micro-nutrients.

Grandmother White said to "dig a deep cavity in the earth." What constitutes a "deep cavity"? Geiger recommends a 4-foot hole. Others believe that a 2-foot hole will suffice. I hit a "happy medium" by digging a 3-footer —that is, a hole three feet wide and three feet deep. The accompanying drawing indicates the size and shape.

In digging the hole for Dr. Kirschner's little peach tree, we followed a new wrinkle of mine that results in mixing the compost and the minerals with the topsoil while digging the hole — thus saving both time and effort. Here are the steps employed in this phase of our tree-planting procedure:
(a) First we laid out a 3-foot circle, marking the edges carefully. Within this circle we laid down two inches of the compost-mineral "mix."
(b) Then with a mattock and spade we dug the mixture in to a depth of approximately 8 inches. The enriched earth was then thrown out into a pile which later on would be returned to the hole. Procedures (a) and (b) were repeated four times until we had reached a depth of 28 inches, when we hit hard, impacted subsoil.
(c) The subsoil was not enriched, but thrown into a separate pile, which later on would be used in building a dike around the mulched basin.
(d) When we reached a depth of 36 inches we were ready to lay down the "breather." This "breather" consisting of two 4-inch drain tiles placed snugly end-to-end, was plugged up at each end with a flat stone. Orchardist Geiger, who invented this "breather," believed that the air chamber at the bottom of the big hole would tend to draw air up and down through the root areas as the barometric pressures changed above ground. I have used his interesting invention for nearly twenty years now with consistently satisfactory results.
(e) My grandmother always used stones in the hole when planting fruit trees. I follow her worthy example. So, on our way from Monrovia to the ranch, Dr. Kirschner and I stopped by the San Gabriel river bed, and picked up about 60 granite boulders. All these stones (3 to 6 pounders), went into the big hole. We placed them in a ring around the edge of the hole about 6 inches apart. This was repeated at various levels as the enriched topsoil was replaced, and the hole filled. By the way, the soil was tamped vigorously about every 8 inches as the hole was filled. This helped to avoid excessive "settling" or "sinking" after the baby tree was watered-in.
(f) When the soil was replaced within 10 inches of the surface, we placed a large stone — a 30 to 40 pounder — in the center of the hole. Next we poured enriched earth over the stone until it was completely covered. We than had a little cone-shaped mound over which we could drape the bare roots of our baby tree. This feature makes it easy to keep the roots properly spaced and reaching out in all directions. It is highly important that the roots be uncrowded and properly spaced. In case of a long taproot, the above plan would have to be modified to suit the shape and length of the root system.
(g) We were now ready to fill in the remainder of the hole, carefully covering the roots of the baby tree first, and firming the soil around the roots to avoid air-pockets. The hole was then filled to the brim with the remainder of the enriched earth, tamped firmly and leveled. At no time can we allow the roots of the baby tree to be exposed to the sun or wind. Keep the roots in damp peat moss or shavings until ready to place in position.
(h) The eighth step in our planting procedure was to mark a 3-foot ring from the trunk of the newly-planted tree. This provided a 6-foot basin. Then we used the pile of subsoil to build a sturdy dike around the basin.
(i) Our ninth step required two wheelbarrow loads of compost and 10 pounds each of the phosphate rock and the granite dust.

First we spread the minerals evenly over the entire area of the basin. This was followed by a full inch layer of compost and earthworm castings. On top of the compost we placed a 3-inch layer of leaves or alfalfa hay. In selecting a mulch we think in terms of FOOD for the underground army of bacteria, fungi and earthworms.

Our final step was to prune our baby tree. When Dr.Kirschner's peach tree arrived from the nursery, it was quite an imposing specimen — approximately 7 feet tall with many branches. We found 5 live buds below the first branches and with our pruning shears snipped off the bulk of the tree 24 inches from the ground level.

"AN ORGANISM SUPPLIED WITH A DIET ADEQUATE IN ALL MINERAL REQUIREMENTS, MAY SO UTILIZE THESE ELEMENTS AS TO PRODUCE IMMUNITY FROM INFECTION QUITE BEYOND ANYTHING WE ARE ABLE TO PRODUCE ARTIFICIALLY BY OUR PRESENT METHODS OF IMMUNIZATION." From Senate Document No. 284.